5 days in Marseille: a gritty, gorgeous Mediterranean escape

Some say it’s fantastic. Others claim it’s not even really France. One thing’s certain: Marseille never leaves anyone indifferent.

Hello from Marseille,

It took me a while to put this itinerary together — not because I didn’t know where to start, but because I wanted to make it thoughtful, balanced, and true to Marseille’s spirit. This is a city that doesn’t reveal itself all at once. It takes a bit of time, a little effort, and an openness to contrasts. That’s exactly what makes it so special.

Marseille is having a moment right now. You’ll find countless recommendations online — for restaurants, beaches, hikes, shops. But this itinerary isn’t just a list. It’s a carefully curated guide that blends history, craftsmanship, nature, neighborhood life, and the local rhythm. It’s the Marseille I’ve come to know and love, shared with intention.

I’ve chosen to offer this guide exclusively to paid subscribers — not to gatekeep, but to protect a few of my favorite places. Marseille is conservative in that way. Just recently, the Instagram account Les Marseillaises posted a roundup of the best beaches for a swim — and people were furious. Locals rushed to defend their secret spots. The post was eventually deleted. And honestly? I admire that.

Marseille doesn’t want to be easy. It’s proud, complex, a little rough around the edges — and that’s part of its beauty. You have to work for it a bit. But once you’re in, it’s unforgettable.

This itinerary covers five full days of exploring (15 downloadable pages) and touches on everything from ancient port history to sunset swims, local design, secret corners, and the Mediterranean pace of life. Best enjoyed in the off-season—spring or fall—when the city still basks in warmth, the light is golden, and you just might find a beach all to yourself.

I hope you’ll love it as much as I do.